TANGKOKO AND HALMAHERA 13 TO 20 JULY 2013
[photo gallery here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47362072@N00/sets/72157635072487597/]
Snapshot
This is a very attractive birding trip to do. Cost was US$1,700 for the 9 nights, for our group
of 3. Guide Theo Henoch can be recommended. Birding is very good; 97 endemics in
Sulawesi, 64 in Maluku according to Coates’ Birds of Wallacea. There are very few birds in common with west
Malaysia. Some examples of these are
collared kingfisher and white bellied sea eagle. There
are interesting endemic or limited range mammals to see; the spectral tarsier,
crested macaque and bear cuscus in Tangkoko.
Local food was surprisingly good throughout, with sambals and chilli
very much to our taste. Not once did we
have to put up with nasi goreng. They
cook simple but well even in the little villages of Halmahera. However accomodation, away from the towns, is
very basic.
In planning the itinerary, this was no hardcore birding
trip. Tangkoko was the main interest, as
it is well-protected forest and rich in birds.
Time allowed us to fit in one extension.
Lore Lindu in Central Sulawesi holds the montane endemics, but it’s a
long trip, routing through Makassar.
Dumoga-Bone national park, would have been a good addition, with many of
the montane endemics available at Gunung Ambang, and the maleo breeding grounds. But it’s a 7-hr ride there. On the other hand, a 50-min plane ride away
is Ternate, and a short one-hour boat trip gets us to the big island of
Halmahera, North Maluku with a whole different avifauna, and of course the
standardwing. Sadly, there are no
protected parks here and the forest is going fast.
Our birding outcome.
At Tangkoko we had a decent haul, missing mainly the raptors and
owls. At Halmahera, we had only 1 ½
days, losing one day to Ternate airport closure due to bad weather. So we missed a lot of pigeons, parrots, owls,
friarbirds but bagged the standardwing.
Total of 58 lifers for me, very good for only 4 full days.
Maps
Manado and Ternate |
Halmahera locations |
Guiding
Theo Henoch can be recommended. Thanks to Yong Ding Li and Peter Ericsson for
endorsing him. He ran a travel agency
and birders asked him for guiding. So he
started learning the calls some years ago.
Does a decent job of identifying the birds, knows the locations. Professional about organising the trip.
Theo’s email: sulamera.birdguide@gmail.com
At Tangkoko, we relied on local guide Samuel from Mamaroos
lodge. Make absolutely certain you have exclusive use of Samuel's guiding service. We thought we did but we were joined by a non-birder couple
also staying at Mama Roos. Samuel was otherwise a
great guide. Local guide at Halmahera
and Ternate was Iskandar, but his english was not adequate to express himself
or understand what we wanted. We fell
back on Theo and that was ok.
Birding Notes
Sulawesi is same time zone as Sing although 4 hours flight
east, so dawn 5:30am.
Halmahera is one hour ahead of Sulawesi. Dawn here is 6:15. Its pretty dark under the canopy and most of
the birding is in the forest. In
addition, the birds do not come close like in India or Australia. Mostly shooting at max ISO 6400, and
handheld, so there were few useable shots.
List of expected birds provided by Theo is at Appendix 1. He mentioned 105 birds.
Locations
North Sulawesi.
Tangkoko National Park is excellent birding, well-protected
and bird-prolific. But the birds are
high in canopy.
Manado, on our forced one-night stay at Novotel, we birded
the grounds for buff-banded rail, and
the nearby padi fields, but nothing much else.
Other sites in north Sulawesi that we did not do:
Dumoga-Bone National Park, near Kotamobagu. Slightly better chance of sulawesi hornbill,
yellowish breasted racquet tail, purple winged roller, bay coucal, owls. Also maleo breeding grounds.
Gunung Ambang near Dumoga-Bone, 6 hrs from Manado. Montane up to 1,700m. But not as many of the
montane birds as Lore Lindu. Good chance
for bare faced rail, cinnabar hawk owl, matinan flycatcher.
Gunung Mahawu, just outside Manado, great for scaly
kingfisher.
Danau Tondano, near Manado, good for waterbirds and migrant
raptors, comb crested jacana.
There is also the option of taking the 1-hr flight north to
Pulau Sangir, and climbing Gunung Sahengbaliran for 4 endemics. Local guide available, Wesley Pangimangen
(Rainbow Losmen). But it’s a difficult
and slippery climb and I regretfully ruled it out.
Halmahera.
Binagara. We were
here for the standardwing. But it’s a
long and difficult trek, 2 ½ hrs in.
Other locations. The traditional Anu’s location is still showing,
although forest quite denuded. He does
an overnight camping trip to catch them early.
Weda diving resort is promising.
They have bought and preserved some 175 acres of forest back of the
resort where the birds lek. Just 20 mins
walk in the morning. But it’s expensive,
Euro 75/night for double. And we did not
know about it earlier.
Ternate. Hoped to
pick up great billed parrot at Danau Tolire but dipped. There is not much else on this small volcanic
island that you can drive completely around on the coastal road in 2 hrs, but
this is one of the historic spice islands that the colonials fought over and is
culturally interesting.
Practicalities
Health
Standard malaria pills required. Chiggers are a serious pest in Tangkoko, with
many trip reports warning of them. Guide
said they are ‘very bad’. First day, I
went in armed with full chigger protection; repellent cream, 75% DEET spread on
legs up to knees, leech socks, and Theo’s DEET repellent spray on top of that.
He resprayed us every hour. After the
first day, I omitted the cream. No
bites. It may be the period of our
visit, they were less serious. Get the
75% DEET cream from Golden Mile Beach Road army supplies shops for $4 a
tube. 25% DEET spray repellent, 3M
Ultrathon from NTUC Unity pharmacy.
Currency
We paid guide Theo Henoch in US$, all other expenses in
rupiah. Change in Singapore.
Getting There and Around
Silkair flies direct to Manado, 4 hrs, S$450.
Manado-Ternate, 50 mins, S$160 return, Lion Air. Garuda also flies, comparable pricing.
Accomodation
Away from major towns, accom is going to be basic losmen;
squat toilet and no washbasin. At
Tangkoko, the accom is a strip of
lodgings at Batuputih village, just outside the park entrance. Mamaroo’s, is run by a friendly family of
Sangir islanders. Basic, non-aircon, no
hot water. Advantage is that recommended
guide Samuel is based here. Food is
decent, once we got them to stop the caucasian-friendly cooking and go more
local and pedas. Minahasa is christian
so we get pork here.
On hindsight, with transport available, we should have go to
the more comfortable Dove Villas. It’s a
few minutes drive to the park entrance.
Binagara. Just one
losmen. Clean enough. But I cannot take this for more than a couple
of days. Big helpings of food, simple
cooking, decent. Halal food as Maluku is
majority muslim.
Sidangoli. There is
just one losmen here, again very basic.
Food was quite good but J and F had bedbugs in their room. We left early for Ternate after one
night.
Ternate. Stay at
Villa Marasai; boutique hotel with 11 rooms, up the slope of the volcano a
little way. Take the big main bedroom
with big balcony, sea view. Near the
university. Sumptuous food. There was just us staying.
Communication
Call roaming worked throughout. Wifi available limited places. In the Bunaken Lounge in Manado airport. In the Villa Marasai in Ternate.
Land transport provided in our tour package, comfortable
Toyota, not SUV, but adequate to drive into Tangkoko. In Halmahera, we actually had two vehicles
with a support team of 4; main guide, local guide and two drivers.
Itinerary
Day
|
Date
|
Activity
|
Accom
|
1
|
Sat, 13
|
Depart Sing 9am, arrive Manado 1pm, transfer straight to
Tangkoko, about 2 hrs
|
Tangkoko, Mama Roo’s
|
2
|
Sun, 14
|
Full day birding Tangkoko
|
Tangkoko
|
3
|
Mon, 15
|
Full day birding Tangkoko
|
Tangkoko
|
4
|
Tue, 16
|
AM: Birding Tangkoko.
After lunch, transfer to Manado
|
Manado, Boulevard Hotel
|
5
|
Wed, 17
|
Ternate flight delayed.
Put up in Manado.
|
Manado, Novotel
|
6
|
Thu, 18
|
Some morning birding nearby. 10am flight to Ternate. Boat to Sidangoli, 1 hr, and onward to
Binagara, 3 hrs
|
Binagara, losmen
|
7
|
Fri, 19
|
AM: Birding Binagara for standardwing
PM: Move to Sidangoli
|
Sidangoli, losmen
|
8
|
Sat, 20
|
AM: Birding, Kali Batu Putih, near Sidangoli
PM: Transfer to Ternate, sight-seeing and birding Ternate.
|
Ternate, Villa Marasai
|
9
|
Sun, 21
|
AM: Flight to Manado, 0925, boat transfer to Bunaken
PM: Snorkelling at Pantai Pangalisang
|
Bunaken, Seabreeze Resort
|
10
|
Mon, 22
|
AM: Snorkelling Bunaken
PM: Depart for Singapore, 2pm
|
Day-to-Day Birding Journal
Sat, 13 jul
Short 4 hr flight, but it was like a whole different world. We met guide Theo Henoch. Incidentally, he is not Minahasan but from
Pulau Sangir to the north. We got into
the car for Tangkoko, did not pass through Manado, little signposting on roads,
no luxury cars, just functional Toyotas and budget cars. Hilly terrain. Many christian churches, presbyterian.
We crossed the breadth of the north Sulawesi peninsula
surprisingly quickly from the Celebes Sea in the north to the Moluccas Sea in
the south. Stopping at a rise looking
over the sea, there is Lembeh Straits, and Lembeh island to the south east. This was Tembuan which we would come back
to. Sulawesi
swiftlets, showed, white rump visible. Brown
cuckoo dove, yellow sided flowerpecker, high and against the light.
Settled in at Mama Roo’s, which is a family-run place, the
family from Pulau Sangir. The
recommended local guide, Samuel is attached here. A short walk away is the beach, black volcanic
sand, outrigger canoes pulled up, floating fishing platforms out to sea. White bellied sea eagle, was the first raptor
of the trip. Grosbeak starling, big flock, orange bill, red on rump not visible.
Light fades by 5:30. Dinner watered down for Caucasian tastes. Only satay was good, but Theo could not id
the meat, said it was chicken. Room
barely tolerable, with no air con, no hot water, and a weak fan. Burned my mozzie coil with the windows open
for ventilation.
Tangkoko, view from high point at Tembuan |
Dawn here is 5:45.
Woke 4am, breakfasted 5am, very simple white bread and artificial
tasting jam. Then walking in to park, slender billed crow, black naped monarch. White
rumped cuckooshrike, 3 of them high in canopy, next to a hair crested
drongo. Yellow billed malkoha, upskirt view. Collared kingfisher. Silver
tipped imperial pigeon, looking just like pied imperial pigeon at this
distance. Would need much closer look to
check for silvery sheen on the wing tips.
White necked myna, incredibly
long tail. Sulawesi babbler. Green backed
kingfisher, spotted by Marcel, the assistant guide, who is understudying
Samuel. Lilac cheeked kingfisher (renamed lilac kingfisher by IOC), duller
than Coates field guide illustration. It
was to be our finding that many of his colours are too bright. White line on wing hardly clear. Ashy
woodpecker, climbing up a trunk, foraging.
Grey cheeked green
pigeon, black naped fruit dove. Cuscus
bear, feeding in canopy. Slow-moving
animal, reminding me of the binturong in Fraser’s. Female ashy woodpecker showed. Green imperial pigeon but subspecies with
yellow/orange on nape. Philippines scrub fowl (philippine
megapode, IOC), knobbed hornhill, sulawesi pygmy hornbill (sulawesi hornbill, IOC).
We knocked off 1130, lunched back at the lodge, rested till
3pm, then drove in along the only access road, to the tarsier info sign and walked
to tarsier sleeping tree. The cuddly fellows were there, about 6 of them. Owling from 6 to 7pm, meant sitting on palm leaves,
de-chiggified by Theo’s spray.
Total dark, some fireflies. But
no minahasan or sulawesi masked owl showed.
Some desired birds calling but
not seen; pied cuckooshrike, black billed koel.
Mon, 15 Jul
Woke 4am, entered Tangkoko 5am. Great to have first sighting of purple winged roller. Then crested macaques at a rubbish dump by the
beach, large troop, maybe 30 individuals.
More views of green backed kingfisher.
Then the sulawesi dwarf
kingfisher, perched in the understory.
We stalked the red bellied pitta a whole long hour, but a flash of red
and blue was all I saw. And another long
hour waiting while Samuel looked for the ochre bellied boobook with no success. Bat flew in, like a giant butterfly, folded
its wings and hung upside down from a branch like a big butterfly pupa. We came across a two-metre snake that they
said was a cobra.
Pied cuckooshrike, black
billed koel, high up in canopy. These
birds called long before we had sightings.
The guides searched for openings in the forest middle storey to look up
at the canopy, and we only had distant views.
Lunched late at 1230, after 7 hours in the field, footsore and sweaty,
but no time for a bath before our 2pm boat.
The boat took off north, to enter a small river lined with
mangroves. Samuel had not noted the
tide, and it was too low for us to enter the river, so we disembarked for the
boat to clear the sandbar. Paddling up
and down, the river was barely wide enough to turn the outrigger boats,
sometimes dragging on a snag. Not very
productive and no great-billed kingfisher.
Sacred kingfisher. Big channel
billed cuckoos, flying overhead twice.
Before dinner, we walked out to the park again to catch the sulawesi scops owl, several calling,
finally located one 5m off the ground. Photographed
in the beam of Samuel’s torchlight.
Tue, 16 Jul
Rainy morning and we delayed departure to 6am. Then to Tembuan, the high spot. We really could have used a scope. So many birds were at limit of id. We walking
down a slope, to the work shed of the palm sap collectors. It started to rain again. Grey cheeked green pigeon, ornate
lorikeets, really gaudy birds, sulawesi black pigeon (white faced dove,
IOC) again. Pygmy hornbills, golden
mantled racquet tails frustratingly moving about the tree, but in poor
light and not showing their upper parts. Also yellow
breasted racquet tail. Sam spotted a
Sulawesi cicada bird flying overhead, but untickable.
With the poor weather, we opted to leave early for Manado, right
after lunch, for some shopping and the only chance to see the town.
Wed, 17 Jul
Wasted day. Out to the
airport by 8am, then it turned out Ternate was closed for landings on account
of bad weather. But it was not till 3pm
that they told us the flight was off till next day. Bus brought us to the Novotel near the
airport. Good hotel, decent dinner. In the grounds, golf course, few minutes birding,
T found buff banded rail, white breasted
woodswallow, then F spotted distant grey
sided flowerpecker.
Thu, 18 Jul
Pre-breakfast birding in the hotel grounds turned up yesterday’s
rail again, collared kingfisher, with darker crown than our sg one, munias
scaly breasted and chestnut. Waiting for
the call to the airport, T took us to a road with padi fields, but no black
faced munia that we wanted, just the grey sided flowerpecker again, and white
bellied woodswallow. Hassle at the
airport, but it was due to poor communication on their part, our plane left at
10am. Beautiful approach to Ternate, the
volcanoes looming, scattered houses fringing the coast, roofs glinting in
sunlight.
Boat crossing to Sidangoli, then cruising up and down the
mangroves just south of the town , T calling, beach kingfisher showed up after 20 mins. Reaching Halmahera, finally in a new
avifauna. Lunch at Rumah Makan Mari Sayang at
Sidangoli, nasi ayam goreng, with sup ayam and their chili relish made with
belachan, sedap. Long drive Sidangoli to Binagara, about 3 hrs, much of it coastal along the deep bay. Birding along the road, blue and white kingfisher. Called sombre kingfisher, paradise
kingfisher at their usual spots but no response.
Drab whistler calling, melodious, but no show. Metallic
starlings, red eyes separate from the other starling moluccan with no red
eyes. And the juv starlings with white
underparts. Swiftlets flying around
have to be moluccan swiftlets, but separate them carefully. Common
cicadabird, that T initially thought was dusky oriole, and I thought one of
the cuckooshrikes. Golden bulbul looking like black naped oriole. Note 3-way split; seram golden bulbul
(Moluccas, Seram, Ambon), northern golden bulbul (Sangihe, Togian, Banggai
islands), buru golden bulbul (Buru islands).
Rainbow bee eaters, two perched. Goliath coucal, last bird of the day.
Binagara losmen, clean but too basic; squat toilet and no
bathroom sink. One iron-barred window
high up was only ventilation. They
brought in a fan. Dined after our
baths. Simple but decent food, meat that
I could not id and did not touch.
Ternate volcano with tiny Pulau Hiri foreground |
Fri, 19 Jul
Walking in to the lek,
dusky scrub fowl sleeping, seen in the dark early morning. We arrived late at the lek, 7:15am, fortunately
3 birds still displaying. On the way out,
ivory breasted pitta, grey
headed fruit dove, blyth’s hornbill,
brown cuckoo doves, dusky brown oriole,
common golden whistler (black-chinned
whistler, IOC), spectacled imperial
pigeon. Saw a pitta’s nest, with one
egg inside
Walk to the lek was difficult, 2 ½ hrs, with several stream crossings, 3 of
them over my rubber boots. Muddy trails,
ankle-deep mud in places. My boots a
little too tight, cramping my right toes.
And eventually my left big
toenail turned blue black. Slipped on
one upslope, climbing up from stream, right hand went into a patch of nibong,
pulling out thorns by torchlight.
Miscalculation by guides , we arrived late, luckily several of them
still displaying, but 15m up, and we watched for ½ hr. We had asked for nasi goreng breakfast, and
they expected us out mid-morning, and the food was waiting at the trail head. We eventually emerged at 1230, very footsore,
my water long exhausted. The birding
would have been good in the forest, but with the long return walk ahead, we did
not want to stop.
On the drive to Sidangoli, scanning the common dollarbirds,
hoping for purple but we dipped. Red cheeked parrot. Raining as we drove, and T suggested to
cut the drive birding and head straight for Sidangoli.
Sat, 20 Jul
Morning birding around Sidangoli, driving along the
road. Area called Kali Batu Putih. Walking up tracks, logging roads. Quite productive and it was a shame our time
was so short in Halmahera. Drab whistler, really rather drab,
identified by call, eclectus parrot,
pair, through the scope, with the very
colourful, red female. Somber kingfisher, with the plaintive
call, and the undertaker colours, cream
throated white eye. We saw a faint
white ring around the eye unlike Coates’ drawing. Moluccan
starling, with no red eye like the metallic starlings. They are much less numerous than the metallic. Rufous
bellied triller, black sunbird, males and females, male showing bright blue
on crown. Finally pinned down this
common bird. Gurney’s eagle, in flight overhead.
Little to separate it, much like black eagle, just little lighter
patches midwing. A flock of about 20 blyth’s hornbills coming and going from a tall tree
in distance.
Expecting the usual afternoon showers, I had suggested
moving to Ternate after lunch. Iskandar
took us on sight-seeing tour first, kraton and portugese fort. We circumnavigated the island on the coast
road. At Danau Tolire, deep crater lake
walking around the periphery, Iskandar saw the great billed parrot, but turned
to call us too loudly, and it flushed across the lake. Just a bino view of it retreating,
untickable. Other individuals called but
no sighting. No channel billed cuckoo
either. Proceeded to Villa Masarai, gem
of a boutique hotel, up the hillside, near the university. There is one hectare of plantation trees
behind the hotel. Dinner was best meal
ever, two big garoupa in a hot and sour sauce.
Sun, 21 Jul
Next morning, some birding around the lodge grounds, but
nothing new showed. Then set off to the
tiny airport. Reaching Manado, taxi to
jetty, then boat to Bunaken beach landing at low tide and wading ashore. Afternoon, 3 hours of enjoyable snorkeling,
private boat with guide. Bunaken is one
of the great coral reef dive spots and not to be missed. Reef just off the hotel, Pantai Pangalisang,
which hotel diver instructor says is best spot. Chalet was beautiful, with patio at the cliff
edge, windows open to the sea, private.
Food was indifferent, watered down to ang-moh tastes.
Mon, 22 Jul
Another round of snorkeling in the morning, a good two
hours, then off to Manado for F to shop for foodstuff, and uneventful flight back.
Last meal of bubor manado; rice pumpkin and veggie, tastes much beetter than it looks |
Bird List Achieved
This is my lifer list for the trip. There were a few more birds seen, but
basically the avifauna is very different from Mindanao, Philippines to the
north, or Sabah to the west or Bali to the south.
1
|
Philippine Megapode
|
Megapodius cumingii
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
2
|
Dusky Megapode
|
Megapodius freycinet
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
3
|
Gurney's Eagle
|
Aquila gurneyi
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
4
|
Buff-banded Rail
|
Gallirallus philippensis
|
17/7/13
|
Manado, Novotel hotel grounds
|
5
|
Brown Cuckoo-Dove
|
Macropygia phasianella
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
6
|
White-faced Dove
|
Turacoena manadensis
|
16/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
7
|
Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon
|
Treron griseicauda
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
8
|
Grey-headed Fruit Dove
|
Ptilinopus hyogastrus
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
9
|
Black-naped Fruit Dove
|
Ptilinopus melanospilus
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
10
|
White-bellied Imperial Pigeon
|
Ducula forsteni
|
16/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
11
|
Spectacled Imperial Pigeon
|
Ducula perspicillata
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
12
|
Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon
|
Ducula luctuosa
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
13
|
Ornate Lorikeet
|
Trichoglossus ornatus
|
16/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
14
|
Red-cheeked Parrot
|
Geoffroyus geoffroyi
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
15
|
Yellow-breasted Racket-tail
|
Prioniturus flavicans
|
16/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
16
|
Golden-mantled Racket-tail
|
Prioniturus platurus
|
16/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
17
|
Eclectus Parrot
|
Eclectus roratus
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
18
|
Goliath Coucal
|
Centropus goliath
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
19
|
Yellow-billed Malkoha
|
Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
20
|
Black-billed Koel
|
Eudynamys melanorhynchus
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
21
|
Channel-billed Cuckoo
|
Scythrops novaehollandiae
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
22
|
Sulawesi Scops Owl
|
Otus manadensis
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
23
|
Sulawesi Swiftlet
|
Aerodramus sororum
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
24
|
Purple-winged Roller
|
Coracias temminckii
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
25
|
Green-backed Kingfisher
|
Actenoides monachus
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
26
|
Lilac Kingfisher
|
Cittura cyanotis
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
27
|
Blue-and-white Kingfisher
|
Todiramphus diops
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
28
|
Sombre Kingfisher
|
Todiramphus funebris
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
29
|
Beach Kingfisher
|
Todiramphus saurophagus
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, mangroves near Sidangoli
|
30
|
Sacred Kingfisher
|
Todiramphus sanctus
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
31
|
Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher
|
Ceyx fallax
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
32
|
Rainbow Bee-eater
|
Merops ornatus
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
33
|
Sulawesi Hornbill
|
Penelopides exarhatus
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
34
|
Knobbed Hornbill
|
Aceros cassidix
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
35
|
Blyth's Hornbill
|
Rhyticeros plicatus
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
36
|
Ashy Woodpecker
|
Mulleripicus fulvus
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
37
|
Ivory-breasted Pitta
|
Pitta maxima
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
38
|
Moluccan Cuckooshrike
|
Coracina atriceps
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
39
|
Pied Cuckooshrike
|
Coracina bicolor
|
15/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
40
|
White-rumped Cuckooshrike
|
Coracina leucopygia
|
14/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
41
|
Common Cicadabird
|
Coracina tenuirostris
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
42
|
Rufous-bellied Triller
|
Lalage aurea
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
43
|
Black-chinned Whistler
|
Pachycephala mentalis
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
44
|
Drab Whistler
|
Pachycephala griseonota
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
45
|
Dusky-brown Oriole
|
Oriolus phaeochromus
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
46
|
Slaty Monarch
|
Mayrornis lessoni
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
47
|
Standardwing
|
Semioptera wallacii
|
19/7/13
|
Halmahera, Binagara forest
|
48
|
Seram Golden Bulbul
|
Thapsinillas affinis
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
49
|
Sulawesi Babbler
|
Trichastoma celebense
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
50
|
Cream-throated White-eye
|
Zosterops atriceps
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
51
|
Metallic Starling
|
Aplonis metallica
|
18/7/13
|
Halmahera, Sidangoli-Binagara road
|
52
|
Moluccan Starling
|
Aplonis mysolensis
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
53
|
Sulawesi Myna
|
Basilornis celebensis
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
54
|
White-necked Myna
|
Streptocitta albicollis
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
55
|
Grosbeak Starling
|
Scissirostrum dubium
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
56
|
Yellow-sided Flowerpecker
|
Dicaeum aureolimbatum
|
13/7/13
|
Tangkoko
|
57
|
Grey-sided Flowerpecker
|
Dicaeum celebicum
|
17/7/13
|
Manado, Novotel hotel grounds
|
58
|
Black Sunbird
|
Leptocoma sericea
|
20/7/13
|
Halmahera, Kali Batu Putih
|
References
·
A Guide to the Birds of Wallacea, by Coates,
Bishop and Gardner, 1997
·
Con Foley report which sparked this trip,
·
Dominic Chaplin, Apr 2012,
http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=2303
·
Phil Gregory, Apr 2010, the most useful report
for bird location details,
·
Herve Jacob, Sep 2012,
Appendix: Expected Bird List
This is a list of expected birds provided by Theo Henoch,
marked with an x in column TH. For
comparison, birds achieved by Phil Gregory (see Ref.) are listed under column
PG. There are some other endemic birds
listed by Coates are marked e. Some
other endemics are not seen. [email me
for an excel spreadsheet which is easier to read.]
Sulawesi, Halmahera bird list
|
|||||
e, endemic; TH, Theo Henoch: PG, Phil Gregory
|
|||||
TH
|
PG
|
PG location
|
|||
SULAWESI
|
|||||
Megapodiidae
|
|||||
maleo
|
e
|
x
|
Bogani
|
||
philippine scrub fowl
|
x
|
x
|
|||
dusky scrubfowl
|
h
|
x
|
|||
Anatidae
|
|||||
sunda teal
|
x
|
||||
Ardeidae
|
|||||
nankeen night heron
|
x
|
Gorontalo road
|
|||
Accipitridae
|
|||||
barred honey buzzard
|
x
|
Karenta
|
|||
Sulawesi serpent eagle
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
||
spotted harrier
|
x
|
Manado, G Ambang
|
|||
sulawesi goshawk
|
e
|
x,u
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
spot tailed goshawk
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
small sparrowhawk
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
vinous breasted sparrowhawk
|
e
|
||||
sulawesi hawk eagle
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Rallidae
|
|||||
buff banded rail
|
x
|
||||
barred rail
|
x
|
x
|
|||
snoring rail
|
e
|
||||
blue faced rail
|
e
|
||||
isabelline bush hen
|
e
|
x
|
Toraut
|
||
dusky moorhen
|
x
|
Danau Tondano
|
|||
Scolopacidae
|
|||||
sulawesi woodcock
|
e
|
||||
Columbidae
|
|||||
metallic pigeon
|
x
|
coast road'
|
|||
great cuckoo dove
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|||
sulawesi black pigeon
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
stephans emerald dove
|
x
|
x
|
|||
grey cheeked green pigeon
|
x
|
x
|
|||
sulawesi ground dove
|
e
|
||||
red eared fruit dove
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang, Lore Lindu
|
||
maroon chinned fruit dove
|
e
|
x
|
Bogani
|
||
superb fruit dove
|
x
|
G Mahawu
|
|||
black naped fruit dove
|
x
|
x
|
|||
white bellied imperial pigeon
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
grey headed imperial pigeon
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
silver tipped imperial pigeon
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
sombre pigeon
|
e
|
||||
Cacatuidae
|
|||||
lemon crested cockatoo
|
x
|
||||
Psittacidae
|
|||||
large sulawesi hanging parrot
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
small sulawesi hanging parrot
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
ornate lorikeet
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
yellow and green lorikeet
|
e
|
x
|
D. Tambing, Lore Lindu
|
||
red flanked lorikeet
|
x
|
coast road'
|
|||
yellow breasted racquet tail
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
golden mantled racquet tail
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
blue backed parrot
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Cuculidae
|
|||||
bay coucal
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
sulawesi hawk cuckoo
|
e
|
x,u
|
|||
black billed koel
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
yellow billed malkoha
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Tytonidae
|
|||||
sulawesi masked owl
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
minahassa masked owl
|
e
|
x,u
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
Strigidae
|
|||||
sulawesi scops owl
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
ochre bellied boobook
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
cinnabar boobook
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|||
speckled boobook
|
e
|
x
|
Bogani
|
||
Caprimulgidae
|
|||||
heinrich's nightjar
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
sulawesi nightjar
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Apodidae
|
|||||
sulawesi swiftlet
|
x
|
x
|
|||
purple needletail
|
x
|
Wuasa, Lore Lindu
|
|||
Coraciidae
|
|||||
purple winged roller
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Alcedinidae
|
|||||
green backed kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
|||
scaly breasted kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
||
lilac cheeked kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
great billed kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
sacred kingfisher
|
x
|
Bogani
|
|||
sulawesi dwarf kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Meropidae
|
|||||
purple bearded bee eater
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
||
rainbow bee eater
|
x
|
||||
Bucerotidae
|
|||||
sulawesi dwarf hornbill
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
knobbed hornbill
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
ashy woodpecker
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
sulawesi pygmy woodpecker
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
Pittidae
|
|||||
red bellied pitta
|
x
|
||||
Meliphagidae
|
|||||
lesser sulawesi honeyeater
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
greater sulawesi honeyeater
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
sulawesi myzomela
|
x
|
G Ambang, Lore Lindu
|
|||
Artamidae
|
|||||
ivory backed woodswallow
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
Campephagidae
|
|||||
caerulean cuckoo shrike
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
white rumped cuckoo shrike
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
sulawesi cicadabird
|
e
|
x
|
|||
pygmy cuckoo shrike
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
pied cuckoo shrike
|
e
|
x
|
|||
sulawesi triller
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
Pachycephalidae
|
|||||
yellow flanked whistler
|
e
|
||||
maroon backed whistler
|
e
|
||||
sulphur vented whistler
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
||
Dicruridae
|
|||||
sulawesi drongo
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
||
Rhipiduridae
|
|||||
rusty bellied fantail
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang, Lore Lindu
|
||
Monarchidae
|
|||||
Corvidae
|
e
|
||||
piping crow
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
slender billed crow
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Pycnonotidae
|
|||||
malia
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
Phylloscopidae
|
|||||
sulawesi leaf warbler
|
e
|
||||
Timaliidae
|
|||||
sulawesi babbler
|
e
|
x
|
|||
black ringed white eye
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
black crowned white eye
|
x
|
G Ambang, Lore Lindu
|
|||
streak headed dark eye
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
sulawesi white eye
|
e
|
x
|
|||
Sturnidae
|
|||||
sulawesi crested myna
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
white necked myna
|
e
|
x
|
|||
fiery browed myna
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
grosbreak myna
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Turdidae
|
|||||
geomalia
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
great shortwing
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|
red backed thrush
|
e
|
x
|
|||
sulawesi mountain thrush
|
e
|
||||
Muscicapidae
|
|||||
turquoise flycatcher
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|||
grey streaked flycatcher
|
x
|
||||
rufous throated flycatcher
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
blue fronted flycatcher
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
sulawesi blue flycatcher
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|||
matinan flycatcher
|
e
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
||
henna tailed jungle flycatcher
|
e
|
||||
lompobattang flycatcher
|
e
|
||||
Dicaeidae
|
|||||
yellow sided flowerpecker
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
G Ambang
|
|
crimson crowned flowerpecker
|
e
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
||
grey sided flowerpecker
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Nectariniidae
|
|||||
black sunbird
|
h
|
x
|
|||
Estrididae
|
|||||
black faced munia
|
x
|
x
|
|||
pale headed munia
|
x
|
Lore Lindu
|
|||
HALMAHERA
|
|||||
Megapodiidae
|
|||||
Anatidae
|
|||||
red throated grebe
|
x
|
Danau Tolire
|
|||
Ardeidae
|
|||||
Accipitridae
|
|||||
gurney's eagle
|
x
|
||||
pacific baza
|
x
|
||||
variable goshawk
|
x
|
||||
moluccan goshawk
|
e
|
x
|
|||
rufous necked sparrowhawk
|
e
|
x
|
|||
variable goshawk
|
x
|
x
|
|||
pygmy eagle
|
x
|
||||
Rallidae
|
|||||
drummer rail
|
e
|
x
|
|||
pale vented bush hen
|
x
|
||||
dusky scrub fowl
|
x
|
s
|
|||
Scolopacidae
|
|||||
Columbidae
|
|||||
scarlet breasted fruit dove
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
blue capped fruit dove
|
e
|
x
|
|||
grey headed fruit dove
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
superb fruit dove
|
x
|
||||
cinnamon bellied imperial pigeon
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
spectacled imperial pigeon
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Cacatuidae
|
|||||
Psittacidae
|
|||||
chattering lory
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
white cockatoo
|
e
|
x
|
|||
moluccan hanging parrot
|
x
|
||||
violet necked lory
|
x
|
x
|
|||
red flanked lorikeet
|
x
|
||||
red cheeked parrot
|
x
|
||||
great billed parrot
|
x
|
x
|
|||
eclectus parrot
|
x
|
x
|
|||
moluccan king parrot
|
x
|
||||
Cuculidae
|
|||||
moluccan cuckoo
|
e
|
x
|
|||
giant coucal
|
e
|
x
|
|||
brush cuckoo
|
x
|
x
|
|||
channel billed cuckoo
|
x
|
Danau Tolire
|
|||
Tytonidae
|
|||||
Strigidae
|
|||||
moluccan scops owl
|
x
|
x
|
|||
moluccan boobook
|
x
|
||||
Caprimulgidae
|
|||||
moluccan owlet nightjar
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Apodidae
|
|||||
sulawesi swiftlet
|
x
|
||||
Hemiprocnidae
|
|||||
moustached treeswift
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Coraciidae
|
|||||
purple dollarbird
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Alcedinidae
|
|||||
blue and white kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
sombre kingfisher
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
beach kingfisher
|
x
|
x
|
|||
variable dwarf kingfisher
|
x
|
||||
Meropidae
|
|||||
rainbow bee eater
|
x
|
||||
Bucerotidae
|
|||||
blyths hornbill
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Pittidae
|
|||||
ivory breasted pitta
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Meliphagidae
|
|||||
white streaked friarbird
|
e
|
x
|
|||
dusky friarbird
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Artamidae
|
|||||
Campephagidae
|
|||||
moluccan cuckoo shrike
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
halmahera cuckoo shrike
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
rufous bellied triller
|
e
|
x
|
|||
Pachycephalidae
|
|||||
Oriolidae
|
|||||
dusky brown oriole
|
e
|
x
|
|||
Dicruridae
|
|||||
Rhipiduridae
|
|||||
Monarchidae
|
|||||
slaty monarch
|
e
|
x
|
|||
moluccan monarch
|
x
|
||||
white naped monarch
|
x
|
x
|
|||
moluccan monarch
|
x
|
||||
moluccan flycatcher
|
x
|
||||
shining flycatcher
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Corvidae
|
|||||
long billed crow
|
e
|
x
|
|||
Paradiseaidae
|
|||||
paradise crow
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
standardwing
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Hylocitridae
|
|||||
black chinned whistler
|
x
|
||||
cinnamon breasted whistler
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Pycnonotidae
|
|||||
northern golden bulbul
|
x
|
x
|
|||
malia
|
x
|
||||
Phylloscopidae
|
|||||
Timaliidae
|
|||||
cream throated white eye
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Sturnidae
|
|||||
metallic starling
|
x
|
x
|
|||
moluccan starling
|
x
|
x
|
|||
Muscicapidae
|
|||||
Dicaeidae
|
|||||
flame breasted flowerpecker
|
e
|
x
|
x
|
||
Nectariniidae
|
|||||
black sunbird
|
x
|
s
|
|||
Estrididae
|
|||||
Nomenclature Notes:
|
|||||
black chinned whistler (IOC) is split from common golden
whistler (Coates)
|
|||||
sulawesi swiftlet (Coates) is split into halmahera, sulawesi and
seram swiftlets (IOC)
|
|||||
giant coucal (Theo) = goliath coucal (Coates, IOC)
|
|||||
heinrich's nightjar (Coates) = satanic nightjar (IOC)
|
|||||
scarlet honeyeater (Coates ) = sulawesi myzomela (IOC)
|
|||||
dusky honeyeater (Coates) = dusky myzomela (IOC)
|
|||||
grey-faced goshawak (PG) is not recognised by IOC yet, still
variable goshawk
|
|||||
moluccan boobook (Coates) = hantu boobook (IOC)
|
|||||
drab whistler (Coates) = cinnamon breasted whistler (IOC)
|
|||||
spectacled monarch (Coates) split into moluccan monarch (IOC)
|